Big Mama, or, Rome’s home of the blues, as it likes to call itself, is a nearly 30 year old establishment. Their nightly shows cover the spectrum from jazz to rock to blues to ethnic with a fair amount of awesome cover bands thrown in for good measure. And, it’s one of the best deals in town to watch live music on a regular basis. Drop 15 euro for an annual “tessera” (or membership card) the first time you go, and return for free for the rest of the year. While you’re there, avail yourself of the sizable wine and cocktail list, which, unlike most music venues stateside, is actually priced normally.

Interested in checking it out? You’re in luck, because this Saturday night my favorite act – oldies cover band The Riding Sixties – is taking the stage to duke it out amongst themselves in their bi-monthly Beatles vs. Stones showdown.  Classic rock, drinks, and a subterranean jazz club that unashamedly models itself after the venerable House of Blues? Sounds like my kind of night.

Where: Vicolo San Francesco a Ripa 8, Trastevere
How: To reserve a table (free, although you’re expected order drinks), call ahead or go online, although walk-ins are always welcome

One huge scene in Rome is the ‘blogger/writer’ scene. Ever wonder who the people are behind the blogs and websites? Well I spoke to the… person… who runs BuzzInRome, a super useful and up-to-date site about Rome and its awesomeness. 

Name: Anonymous
Where are you from? I am from Rome, I was born here.
For how long have you lived in Rome? I spent most of my life here. Except for a year and half in London in the 1990s.
Which was the last restaurant in which you ate? Gaudì, in the Parioli area. They have Naples-style pizza, the real pizza. In Rome they make a thin, burnt crust they call “pizza.” (Yes! I like to call it cracker pizza, personally.)
Which was the last pub you went to? 4:20, near Porta Portese. They have a wide range of draft beers and an unusual choice of ciders. But there is also good food.
What is your job? I ask questions. Exactly what you’re doing with me! I am an economics/finance reporter for a national TV network. I also present the news, live. It’s an Italian channel.
For how long have you worked in this position? Nearly 8 years. But the last few months have been by large the most interesting and hectic because of Italy’s debt crisis.
What is your background? I studied international politics and I’ve always worked as an economics reporter.
Have you always wanted to write? No, not really. I actually never held journalists in high regard, but I then changed my mind when I realized that this is a very diverse job, never boring, and that news bureaus are very free and stimulating workplaces with people coming from different backgrounds willing to share their knowledge and views of the world.
How did you decide to get into your current role or area of work? It was pure coincidence. During my military draft I started as a part-time contributor for a newspaper and then got hired when a full-time journalist left it.
Why did you start a blog on Rome, in English? I love to travel. I’ve met and hosted many tourists here in Rome and I realized that they were missing the atmosphere and the magic of this city by visiting only the must-see sights. Our past is very fascinating and our ancestors did incredible things, but I think that Rome’s contemporary talent and lifestyle are equally worth a visit. I am trying to convince the international community that there is much more than the Vatican and the Colosseum to experience here.
And your other job? I consider BuzzInRome as my second job. It takes several hours a day. It’s not just writing, it is much more: creating an online community of Rome addicts, reading, replying to queries and trip advice, meeting people with new tourism-related ideas and projects etc….
What is the target audience of the blog? This is a very tricky question. My blog is aimed at both multiple-time Rome visitors and expats – workers and students. It is for those who want to enjoy our lifestyle, not for the average 3-day tourist.
What is your readership like? My readers are mostly women in their 20-30s, they all have a degree but are not big money earners (yet). It is more complicated to draw a profile of those who leave comments. It is usually people with a very in depth knowledge of the topic addressed in the story who want to share their insights.
What do you try to write about mostly? I mostly write about events. All and everything has been written on Rome’s landmarks. Very little is available in English on what goes on in Rome now, how Romans live, what they do in their free time: on the 21st century Dolce Vita. I focus on events that can be enjoyed by foreigners who don’t speak Italian.
How many articles do you try to publish every week? I don’t have a rule, really. It pretty much depends on how many events are taking place in a specific period in and around Rome and how much spare time I have. I’d say 3 on average.
Do people ever write to you asking you to cover a certain topic? If they do, would you do it? It’s happened sometimes. I’d do it if it is in line with the spirit of the blog.
What social media applications do you use? Twitter, Facebook, Stumbleupon and Foursquare. Twitter is great to get tips and updates. Facebook is good to create a community of people who share an interest. Stumbelupon increases the blog’s exposure. Foursquare shows where you go, what you do in your real life.
Which is the best way, in your opinion, to get your articles out there and seen? Writing about controversial issues helps a lot. But I prefer sober content and dry style. I want to inform.
What would you suggest to a tourist coming to Rome, before they get here? I’d suggest them to consider that Rome is overwhelming for quality and quantity of sights. Some reading before getting here would help them screen and choose: you can’t see everything in a city like Rome. I’d also recommend to leave some energy for the night, to enjoy a walk, and a glass of wine after dusk. Rome is full of people and energy at night. All year long.
What would you suggest to a tourist in Rome? Can I say what is not a must-see in my humble opinion? The visit inside the Colosseum. There is very very little left after centuries of pillages. The amphitheater’s beauty lies in the structure as such, which can easily be admired from outside, from the road. Why not spend those two hours in the Borghese Gallery, for instance?
Do you have any advice for someone that is looking to write about Rome, being in Rome, or things to do in Rome? Rome is a very chaotic, unorganized city, with poor communication in Italian, let alone in English. But there are so many nice events taking place everywhere in the city, without any coordination or underlying logic. Try to find them out and don’t limit yourself to the city center, (Trastevere ansd Testaccio). Another tip: Rome’s underground artistic scene is very lively and creative, but has nearly no media coverage.

Phew! Now I don’t feel so bad that I’ve lived in Rome for 2 years and never been inside the Colosseum…

I have recently learned that ’a buffo’ has two very distinct meanings. Like all Roman teenagers, I always used this phrase to mean ‘randomly,’ or more precisely, ‘without reason.’ For example:

-’Anche se ho visto il sole prima di uscire da casa stamattina, mi sono messa il piumino a buffo.’ – Even though I saw the sun this morning before I left my the house, I put on my down jacket, for no reason.
-’Il mio iPod si è bloccato a buffo.’ – My iPod randomly crashed.

The original use of this phrase however, has nothing to do with the widely-used expression explained above. If you’re talking to a Roman language stickler, they will tell you that a buffo means free/gratis, or without paying. However, it is not really used in this sense anymore. This is where it gets a bit complicated, so bear with me.

A buffo is dervied from the phrase,  a ufo, which derives from the latin phrase, A.U.F, or ad usum fabricae. You mean you don’t understand Latin?! Well ad usum fabricae means: transported materials that were used in the construction of various cathedrals in Italy (like the Duomo in Milan, and Saint Peter’s in Rome). Taking into account where these materials (stamped with an AUF), were headed, and their holy purpose, they generally traveled for free, gratis: without having to pay tolls. A.U.F. then naturally transformed into a ufo, a phrase meaning, ‘without pay,’ (without the best of connotations, as you can imagine.)

Example:
-’Conosco tanti a Roma che prendono i mezzi a ufo‘ – I know lots of people in Rome who take public transportation without paying.
-’Sono andata a un bel ristorante e ho mangiato a ufo.’ – I went to a nice restaurant and I ate without paying.

Related to this second meaning of a buffo (but really a ufo) is ‘buffi‘ or the Roman word for debts. ‘Sono pieno di buffi.’ – I have a ton of debt.

No matter which way you use this phrase, it is most definitely Roman, meaning a dead giveaway to where you learned Italian. So, I hope you found today’s daily dose of vocab as interesting as I did!

(A special thanks to my Italian mentors, Claudio and Filippo for their help on this post!)

Meaning even, actually, or the exclamation, really?!, addirittura is an adverb deriving from the Italian words, a and dirittura. Technically, addirittura should be two separate words, but since they are said together so often, it has now become one word: a manner of speech.

A meaning ‘to,’ and dirittura meaning ‘the home stretch,’ somehow (no idea how) come together to mean absolutely, even, completely, really, straight away without a doubt…

Some examples might clarify its uses, since translating addirittura into English is a bit complicated:

1) ‘Hai mangiato un’antipasto, un primo, un secondo, un contorno, e anche un dolce?! Addirittura!’ – ‘You ate an appetizer, a first course, a second course, a side dish, and a dessert!? Really?!’
2) ‘Non si è solo laureato, pero ha finito addirittura con 110 e lode!’ – Not only did he graduate, he even had the highest score!
3) ‘Era talmente importante la cosa che doveva dirmi, che mi ha addirittura chiamato alle 4 di notte!’ – The thing he had to tell me was so important, that he even called me at 4 am!’

But just remember, addirittura is not really used in writing, it is generally spoken, and most of the time, said in an exclamatory way.

Rock Carnival Party - Put your mask on and head over to Pigneto’s Circolo degli Artisti. (Warning- if you don’t come with a mask or a costume, they will dress you up themselves!) There will be two DJs spinning rock music, for your dancing pleasure. If you reserve in advance, you can also partake in their €10 all-you-can-eat pizza dinner spectacular!!
Cost: €5 with mask, €8 without. €10 for the stuff-your-face-with-pizza dinner.
For more info in Italian, check out Circolo’s site or the Facebook event.

Vintage Carnival Party – For Lanificio‘s party, you must attend wearing at least one retro item to show off! Starting at 10:30 PM, a DJ will be playing a mix of indie-rock, funk, pop-dance, and vintage. Feel good about attending this party, because all proceeds go to  AMKA development projects in the Congo and Guatemala.
Cost: €10 including a drink.
For more info in Italian, check out Lanificio’s site, or the Facebook event.

Hollywood Party – “The theme of the night is cinema, so you put on the mask/costume, and we’ll put on the makeup” – explains the tagline of Caffè Letterario‘s party. The night begins with an aperitivo/cena at 7:30 PM, leading to a DJ set lasting until 3 AM. For those who want the makeup session, don’t forget to reserve!
Cost: €15 for aperitivo/cena + DJ set
For more info, in Italian, and the number to reserve your free making-up, check out the Facebook event.

Happy Mardi Gras everyone!

These marble statues of Castor and Pollux were thought to be original Greek works, they're actually ancient Roman, but are impressive nonetheless.

Tomb of the Leopards

The details:

What: Etruscan tombs, ancient artifacts, Italian hill town

Time of trip: 5+ hours

Cost: 20-25 € (potentially less due to student discounts and general thriftiness)

Fun: A ton of

The ancient Etruscan city of Tarquinii once adorned a hilltop in what is now the Italian province of Viterbo, around 2,500 years ago. Little is known about the specifics of Etruscan civilization, as they left practically no written record. We do know, however, that they died. Through a bold display of logic, I can infer that they probably even lived, too. Death, however, was just as important as life for the Etruscans and in a strange twist of fate, as it is for many ancient civilizations, our present-day understanding of their life stems from our excavation of their tombs.

Getting to Tarquinia is simple; from Termini take the train in the direction of Pisa that leaves every hour for €6.20 (€12.40 round-trip). After an 1:15 ride to Tarquinia, it is a short bus ride (€.60) from the back of the station up into the town. You can also take a Ferrovia-nord train from the Flaminio metro stop, disembark at Saxa Ruba, and take a Cotral bus straight into Tarquinia that also leaves every hour (this option is more economic, maybe €6-8, but less convenient).  Just to the right of the main gate of Tarquinia is a tourist office with plenty of maps and smiles. Maps are surprisingly not a necessity, as the signs of Tarquinia are plentiful and easy to read. Coming from Rome, where a troop of blindfolded chimpanzees walking backwards and listening to Dead or Alive on repeat could have done a better job of signage, it is a welcome sight.

Join me after the jump for a description of the many sights this sleepy town has to offer:

The main attraction in Tarquinia is the necropolis: a set of fifteen recently excavated tombs that lie just northeast of the city walls, a mere 10-15 minute walk from the center. For each individual tomb one must descend a set of steep stairs into its muggy chambers, turn on a light, and view the remains from the other side of a thick plexi-glass window (so as to protect the frescoes from moisture). Some highlights include the vivid Tomb of the Leopards (pictured above) and the Tomb of Hunting and Fishing. Various scenes of pleasure, parties, Etruscan kottabos, animals, and deities dance across the walls of the others. The tumuli stand solemnly perched above the valley, offering a fantastic view and potentially nasty winds (bring a coat).

Due to worries of conservation and grave-robbing, the individual artifacts of the tombs have been moved to the Museo Archeologico in the center of town (you can buy a combined ticket for the necropolis and museum for €8). I would highly recommend the museum; two highlights include the magnificent, life-sized, winged horses and a bizarre sarcophagus known as “il obeso” (the obese man). I also suggest leaving yourself time to explore the town itself. It is a classic Italian hill town with plenty of poignant artistic touches dotted along its walls. At one vantage point above the windswept valley is a painted brick with a fantastic phrase:

“Da qua, tutto e fermo” (“From here, everything is still.”)

Given the neighbors, I found this quote particularly apt.

Saturday: Since apparently MiBAC was so enamored with Young in Rome awarding their Valentine’s Day Initiative with the “Best Italian Pun of 2012 Award”, the culture ministry has extended “MiBACi” to this weekend.  Just like on Valentine’s Day, admission to all state museums is 2-for-1 Saturday and Sunday.  And, the MAXXI is participating too! Which they don’t usually do! The list of participating sites in Rome is here, and includes everything from the Galleria Borghese (calling ahead for reservations still required), to the excavations at Ostia Antica – and if this weather holds, a trip out to those beautiful ruins might not be such a bad weekend plan.

Sunday: Vini Naturali a Roma, a two-day tasting and expo in the Hotel Columbus on Via della Concilazione which fell victim to last weekend’s blizzardino, has been rescheduled for this weekend. Head over to the hotel on Saturday from 2-9 or Sunday from noon-8 to sample wines from about 100 producers across Italy. Tickets are 20 euro, and can be purchased online. And, since I couldn’t come across this information and not share it, Gavin Degraw, he of the One Tree Hill theme song and various other, um, rock ballads of the early 2000′s, will be playing at Orion in EUR on Sunday night. Tickets are 30 Euro. You don’t wanna be anywhere other than there.

In addition to these, Craft Beer Week and Carnevale are still in full swing throughout the weekend, so squeeze some hoppy debauchery in if you find the time!

This is another one with unsure etymology, but my friend Matteo Gr. (ciao Matteo!) tells me that it is primarily a Roman phrase, but understood throughout Italy. Literally, da paura means ‘from fear.’ Da, meaning ‘from,’ and paura, meaning ‘fear.’ It is always used with the [conjugated as needed] verb essere, or to be. Something is… da paura.

Examples:
1) Gli articoli di Young in Rome sono da paura! – Young in Rome’s articles are awesome!
2) Ho visto Modeselektor dal vivo, sono da paura! – I saw Modeselektor live, they are bleeping awesome!
3) Le cene di Sam sono sempre da paura! – Sam’s dinners are always terrific!

Inti is the singer (and more) of the Italian group Bassmati. He is all very underground and too cool for school, and I talked to him!

Name: Intiman
Age: 27
Where are you from? My mom is Bolivian, my dad is Italian. I was born in Siena, but always lived in Rome.
Which was the last restaurant in which you ate? I can’t say, because I bailed on the check. (sooo rock n’ roll! And not condoned by Young in Rome )
Where was the last place you partied? It was a discopub!
Where do you like to go and listen to music, or see shows? Anywhere that has space for dancing and smoking, and where I can find someone with whom to speak badly of the band that is playing.
What was your first concert? It was the Asian Dub Foundation, and I was 14 years old. As soon as we left, some hoodlum chased after us and hit my friend. I think at that point I realized I wanted to be a musician.
What was your first CD? I believe it was a tape of the Spice Girls.
What was the last song you listened to? Madonna’s single with M.I.A. and Nicki Minaj.
Who are you favorite bands or signers? They change from one minute to the next: I love them and then I hate them. Let’s say around 240 different musicians any given day.
In your opinion, who produces the most interesting and stimulating music today? Whoever lives the music with emotion and fetishism.
Would you like to jam with any other musician? I don’t have any preferences.
What is your job at the moment? I am a sound engineer, a producer, and a performer.
Do you have your own band? Yes, it’s called Bassmati.
How did you choose that name? We were all quite drunk and eating some rice, all while listening to dubstep.
Who else is in the group? Other musicians that play other instruments.
What is your role in Bassmati? I coordinate the production, write lyrics, direct, and dance.
What kind of music does Bassmati play? It’s a mix of rock (a la NOFX), drum and bass, and rap.
Who are other groups or musicians that have influenced you? Pendulum, Offspring, Korn, Foreign Beggars, and the Spice Girls. [sic.]
How long does it take to finish a song? Anywhere from 1 hour to 10 years.
How would you describe the music scene in Rome? People don’t really listen to music: they do aperitivi (happy hours) mostly, but it’s OK.
Have you guys released an album yet? I am currently crafting the band. Aside from the sound, there is also the image to consider. It’ll take a few months.
Is Bassmati performing anywhere soon? Yea, we have 2 concerts coming up, but in some pretty dangerous underground locales. I strongly discourage you from attending. (Ouch! Doesn’t he know I’m from BROOKLYN?!)

Even if Bassmati’s concerts are too underground for us doe-eyed expats, we can still have a listen to Intiman’s mixtape, now available as a free download. It is Intiman’s mix, (as opposed to Bassmati’s), featuring well-known Italian rappers as well. 
But if you want to keep abreast of all of Bassmati’s concerts and singles, visit their Facebook page!